Based on his recipe for TKOs Chocolate Sandwich Cookies, I’m inclined to agree that Michelin Star chef Thomas Keller [see footnote] is a culinary genius. His creation is an elegant interpretation of an Oreo cookie and I’m here to tell you that it is beyond delicious. I love the Halloween-themed cookies that it inspired me to make. Forgive me in advance for this terrible play on words, but... “Bone” apetit!
“To make people happy, that is what cooking is all about.” Thomas Keller
I wanted to make sandwich cookies for Halloween this year and skeletons were the theme that kept coming to mind. Because of their dark chocolate color and beyond-delicious flavors, TKOs were the perfect canvas. Graveyards, coffins, spooky cats and dogs, plus scary pumpkins were all invited to the party. I didn’t want the cookies to be too ghoulish, but I did want them to be “borderline creepy.” I think I may have gone a bit over the border, because I almost scared myself as I cast my eye over the finished cookies. Too scary? The jury is still out.
Cookie specifics
Bouchon Bakery’s TKO Cookies. “TKO” stands for Thomas Keller Oreos and they are the dream version of the Oreo cookie of my youth. The cookie here is a rich, dark chocolate — a delicious bit of heaven. The creamy white chocolate ganache filling is the perfect companion for the dark chocolate cookie. If you’re looking for a sandwich cookie, this is one you have to try. Thank you, Saveur for sharing the recipe! I decided to use it for my Halloween cookies this year but they would be a good choice for any occasion.
Inspiration for the skeleton designs
Since I send cookies to my younger nieces and nephews, I didn’t want to make them too scary. So I put my own twist on the skeleton designs. But I wanted to acknowledge the following cookie artists for their inspiration.
- Coffins: Bake at 350 (includes great how-to photos)
- Cats: Modern Glam (so cute)
- Dogs: Barks ’N Bones Cookie (love the sitting dog cookie cutter)
- Pumpkins: Mommy House Clubhouse (not-too-ghoulish faces)
Shapes
coffins, cats, dogs, pumpkins
Sizes
Sizes range from small (2 inches) to large (4 inches). 2½ to 3 inches is my favorite size for decorating and eating!
Cookie Recipe from This Talented Cookie Artist
Bouchon Bakery’s TKO Cookies. Recipe from Saveur. I used Hershey’s Special Dark Cocoa Powder to produce a very dark — almost black — cookie. I did not include the baking soda because I wanted to reduce the possibility that my cookies would spread.
Filling & Icing
White Chocolate Ganache: Since many of my friends and family members are lactose-intolerant, I did not include butter in my filling and I used coconut cream instead of heavy whipping cream. I also used a higher ratio (3:1) of white chocolate to cream to ensure that the filling wouldn’t be too soft. Finally, I added two teaspoons of vanilla to intensify the flavor.
Glaze for Piping: I used this glaze to pipe the bone details. It dries hard enough that you can stack or package the cookies without damaging the embellishments. I often use this glaze exclusively or in combination with Royal Icing.
Glaze for Piping Recipe
Cookies
Bouchon Bakery’s TKO Cookies: flour, cocoa powder, baking soda (I left this out), butter, salt, sugar
FIlling & Icing
Filling: white chocolate, heavy coconut whipping cream, vanilla extract
Glaze for Piping: sugar, water, corn syrup, bright white food coloring, vanilla extract
Plate, Box or Bag?
Bags. I wanted to give the cookies to friends so I wrapped them individually in clear, food-safe bags, secured with a twist tie. This made it easy to stack the cookies without causing damage to the skeleton designs.
Mailing. I mailed several dozen cookies to my family and friends throughout the U.S. and sent them Priority Mail through the U.S. Post Office. The cookies are on the soft side so I used lots of bubble wrap to make sure they were protected. Thankfully, all the cookies arrive undamaged. I know the packages are appreciated when they arrive because of the texts I get with all those smiling faces.
Coffin Sandwich 101
What I’ve learned...
Not all cocoa powders are alike. For a really dark chocolate dough, I use Hershey’s Special Dark cocoa powder. I also use it if I want an almost black chocolate royal icing. For a lighter brown cookie dough or icing, I use a good quality Dutch-processed or natural cocoa. Experiment to find which cocoa powder works best for your own cookie project. And then keep a note of which one you prefer. If you bake as often as I do, it’s hard to keep all the solutions in your head. Detailed notes can mean the difference between excellence and mediocrity!
These skeleton cookies were made with the best ingredients I could find. I’ve experimented with less expensive ingredients, but have come to the conclusion that flavor is best when I use the best. Why spend all this time baking and decorating if taste and texture are just so-so? Decorating the cookies takes time, but it’s an enjoyable process for me and I know that those who receive them appreciate that. Life is just better when you can share something you love with someone you love. Don’t you agree?
Footnote
Want more Thomas Keller?
To find out more about Thomas Keller, his restaurants, and his approach to the culinary arts, visit the Thomas Keller website. If you want to try some of his recipes, check out Saveur’s article on Our Best Recipes From Thomas Keller.
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